It's black on mine by default but I do have the option of choosing an orange and white skin. Black actually looks really nice. The fonts are a little large (even on my 320x240 screen). That's one reason I think it would work better in landscape. I can also increase the album art size too. :)
Interesting! If it's something that I can follow instructions without damaging my phone I'll try to extract them myself. If someone already has done it can you point me to the correct thread or files?